Quick Answer
Burying chicken wire 12 inches deep provides basic protection against digging predators, but a predator apron (wire laid flat on the ground extending 12-18 inches outward from your coop fence) is more effective and easier to install. Most predators dig down at the fence line, so an apron forces them to dig through wire before reaching the barrier. For maximum security, use hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as raccoons and larger predators can tear through standard chicken wire regardless of burial depth.
Key Takeaways
- Predator aprons work better than buried wire because they block digging at the fence line where predators naturally start
- Extend aprons 12-18 inches outward from your coop fence for small backyard setups; 24 inches for larger runs in high-predator areas
- Hardware cloth (1/2-inch or 1/4-inch mesh) is superior to chicken wire for predator protection
- Burial depth of 12 inches minimum is required if you choose vertical burial instead of an apron
- Raccoons, foxes, coyotes, and dogs are the most common digging threats to backyard flocks
- You don’t need to bury wire if you install a proper predator apron and secure it with landscape staples
- Common mistakes include using chicken wire instead of hardware cloth, extending aprons less than 12 inches, and leaving gaps at corners
- Combination approach (6-inch burial plus 12-inch apron) offers maximum protection in extreme predator zones
What Is a Predator Apron for Chicken Coops?
A predator apron is a horizontal barrier of wire mesh that extends outward from the base of your chicken coop or run fence, lying flat on or just below the ground surface. When a predator tries to dig at the fence line, it encounters the wire apron and must dig through it before reaching the vertical barrier, which most animals abandon after a few attempts.
Predator aprons work because they exploit natural digging behavior. Most predators start digging right at the fence base where they can see or smell chickens. An apron forces them to dig outward through wire mesh, which is frustrating and time-consuming. After hitting wire repeatedly, most predators move on to easier targets.
Key advantages of predator aprons:
- Faster installation than digging trenches
- No need to excavate around existing structures
- Easier to inspect and repair
- Grass and ground cover grow through the mesh, camouflaging it naturally
- Works on rocky or root-filled soil where digging is difficult
The apron method has become the preferred standard among experienced chicken keepers and is recommended by most agricultural extension offices for backyard flocks.
How Deep Should Chicken Wire Be Buried to Stop Predators?
If you choose vertical burial instead of an apron, bury chicken wire at least 12 inches deep around the entire perimeter of your coop or run. This depth stops most casual digging attempts from raccoons, opossums, and small dogs. For areas with determined predators like foxes, coyotes, or large dogs, increase burial depth to 18-24 inches.
However, burial depth alone doesn’t guarantee protection. The wire must also extend 6-12 inches outward at the bottom (creating an L-shape) to prevent predators from digging straight down along the fence line. Without this horizontal component, a determined digger can tunnel straight down past your buried barrier.
Burial depth recommendations by predator type:
- Raccoons and opossums: 12 inches minimum
- Foxes and small coyotes: 18 inches minimum
- Large dogs and persistent coyotes: 24 inches with outward bend
- Badgers (rare but destructive): 24+ inches with hardware cloth, not chicken wire
Keep in mind that burying wire requires significant labor, especially around existing structures. Many chicken keepers who start with burial plans switch to predator aprons after encountering rocks, roots, or frozen ground.
Predator Apron vs Burying Wire: Which Is Better?
Predator aprons are more effective and practical than buried wire for most backyard chicken setups. Aprons take advantage of natural predator behavior (digging at the fence base) while requiring less labor and no excavation. Buried wire can work but demands deeper trenches and more installation time to achieve similar protection.
Comparison of both methods:
| Factor | Predator Apron | Buried Wire |
|---|---|---|
| Installation time | 2-4 hours for average run | 6-12 hours with digging |
| Effectiveness | High (blocks digging at fence line) | Moderate (predators may dig deeper) |
| Soil requirements | Works on any surface | Difficult in rocky/root-filled soil |
| Inspection & repair | Easy to access and fix | Must excavate to repair |
| Material cost | Same wire quantity | Same wire quantity |
| Best for | Most backyard coops | Permanent installations with soft soil |
Choose a predator apron if:
- You have rocky, root-filled, or frozen ground
- You’re installing protection around an existing coop
- You want faster installation with less physical labor
- You need to inspect or repair the barrier regularly
Choose buried wire if:
- You’re building a new coop from scratch with easy-to-dig soil
- You want the barrier completely hidden underground
- Local predators are known to be exceptionally persistent diggers
- You have concerns about tripping hazards from surface wire
For maximum protection in high-risk areas, combine both methods: bury wire 6 inches deep and extend an apron 12-18 inches outward from the fence base.
What Animals Can Dig Under Chicken Wire?
Raccoons, foxes, coyotes, dogs, opossums, skunks, weasels, and badgers can all dig under chicken wire if it’s not properly secured. Raccoons are the most common threat in suburban areas and can dig 12-18 inches deep in a single night when motivated by the smell of chickens. Foxes and coyotes are even more determined and can excavate 24+ inches if they have time.
Common digging predators and their capabilities:
- Raccoons: Dig 12-18 inches deep; extremely persistent and intelligent
- Foxes: Dig 18-24 inches; fast diggers that work during dawn and dusk
- Coyotes: Dig 24+ inches; most dangerous to flocks, hunt day or night
- Dogs (domestic and feral): Dig 12-24 inches depending on size and motivation
- Opossums: Dig 6-12 inches; less persistent but opportunistic
- Skunks: Dig 8-12 inches; usually target eggs rather than birds
- Weasels and mink: Squeeze through small gaps rather than dig deep; need 1/2-inch hardware cloth
- Badgers (regional): Dig 36+ inches; rare but devastating when present
Important note: Chicken wire (1-inch mesh) won’t stop raccoons from tearing through it even if buried. Raccoons have dexterous paws and can pull apart the thin gauge wire used in standard chicken wire. For reliable predator protection, use hardware cloth with 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch mesh instead.
How to Install a Predator Apron Around Your Chicken Run
Installing a predator apron takes 2-4 hours for an average backyard run and requires hardware cloth, landscape staples, wire cutters, and work gloves. Lay the hardware cloth flat on the ground extending 12-18 inches outward from the fence base, secure it every 12 inches with landscape staples, and overlap sections by at least 6 inches to prevent gaps.
Step-by-step installation process:
- Measure your perimeter: Calculate total fence length and add 20% for overlaps and corners
- Choose your material: Buy 1/2-inch hardware cloth in 24-inch or 36-inch width rolls (not chicken wire)
- Clear the ground: Remove rocks, sticks, and debris along the fence line
- Unroll and position: Lay hardware cloth flat with one edge tight against the fence base
- Secure to fence: Attach the inner edge to fence posts or bottom rail with fence staples or zip ties every 12 inches
- Stake the apron: Drive landscape staples (6-inch or 8-inch) through the mesh every 12 inches along the outer edge and middle
- Overlap sections: Where rolls meet, overlap by at least 6 inches and secure with additional staples
- Handle corners: Cut and fold hardware cloth at corners, ensuring no gaps; use extra staples at corner joints
- Cover with mulch (optional): Spread 1-2 inches of mulch, soil, or wood chips over the apron to hide it and speed grass growth
Pro tips for better installation:
- Work on a calm day; hardware cloth is difficult to manage in wind
- Wear heavy gloves; cut edges are extremely sharp
- Use bolt cutters or aviation snips for clean cuts
- Bend the apron slightly downward at the outer edge to discourage digging
- Check for gaps at gates and corners where predators probe for weaknesses
The apron will become less visible over time as grass and ground cover grow through the mesh. This natural camouflage doesn’t reduce effectiveness.
Does Hardware Cloth Work Better Than Chicken Wire for Predators?
Hardware cloth is significantly more effective than chicken wire for predator protection because it uses thicker gauge wire and smaller mesh openings (1/2-inch or 1/4-inch versus 1-inch). Raccoons, the most common backyard predator, can tear through standard chicken wire but cannot break through properly installed hardware cloth. For any below-ground or predator-facing application, hardware cloth is the only reliable choice.
Key differences between hardware cloth and chicken wire:
- Mesh size: Hardware cloth (1/4″ to 1/2″) vs. chicken wire (1″ to 2″)
- Wire gauge: Hardware cloth (19-23 gauge) vs. chicken wire (20-22 gauge, thinner)
- Strength: Hardware cloth resists tearing and bending; chicken wire tears easily
- Predator resistance: Hardware cloth stops raccoons, weasels, mink; chicken wire stops only birds and large animals
- Cost: Hardware cloth costs 2-3x more but lasts longer and provides real protection
- Best use: Hardware cloth for predator barriers; chicken wire only for keeping chickens contained
When to use each material:
- Hardware cloth (1/2-inch mesh): Predator aprons, buried barriers, coop windows, ventilation openings, run walls in predator-heavy areas
- Hardware cloth (1/4-inch mesh): Areas with weasels, mink, or snakes; maximum security installations
- Chicken wire: Interior fencing, temporary barriers, keeping chickens out of garden beds (not predator protection)
Many chicken keepers learn this lesson the hard way after losing birds to raccoons that tore through chicken wire. The extra cost of hardware cloth is a worthwhile investment that pays for itself by preventing losses. When setting up your chicken coop, prioritize hardware cloth for any predator-facing surfaces.
How Far Out Should a Predator Apron Extend From the Coop?
A predator apron should extend 12-18 inches outward from your coop fence for typical backyard installations. This distance forces predators to dig through at least 12 inches of wire mesh before reaching the vertical barrier, which most animals abandon. In areas with aggressive predators like coyotes or large dogs, extend the apron 24 inches for added security.
Apron width recommendations by situation:
- Urban/suburban coops with occasional raccoons: 12 inches minimum
- Standard backyard coops in moderate predator areas: 18 inches (recommended standard)
- Rural coops with foxes and coyotes: 24 inches
- High-risk areas with persistent predators: 24-36 inches
- Small portable coops or tractors: 12 inches (easier to move)
Factors that affect apron width:
- Local predator population and species
- How often you move the coop (wider aprons are harder to relocate)
- Budget and material availability
- Soil type (wider aprons work better on hard or rocky soil where digging is difficult)
Wider isn’t always better. Aprons extending beyond 24 inches become expensive and difficult to secure properly. Most predators give up after encountering 12-18 inches of wire, making ultra-wide aprons unnecessary for typical backyard flocks.
Common Mistakes When Burying Chicken Wire for Chickens
The most common mistakes when installing buried wire or predator aprons include using chicken wire instead of hardware cloth, leaving gaps at corners and gates, insufficient burial depth or apron width, and failing to secure the wire properly with enough stakes. These errors create weak points that predators quickly discover and exploit.
Top installation mistakes and how to avoid them:
Using chicken wire for predator protection
- Problem: Raccoons tear through it easily
- Solution: Use 1/2-inch hardware cloth for all predator barriers
Extending aprons less than 12 inches
- Problem: Predators dig past short aprons in minutes
- Solution: Minimum 12 inches; 18 inches is better
Leaving gaps at corners and gates
- Problem: Predators probe corners and find weak spots
- Solution: Overlap wire at corners; install aprons under gate swing areas
Insufficient staking
- Problem: Predators lift unsecured wire and dig underneath
- Solution: Stake every 12 inches along the entire apron
Not overlapping wire sections
- Problem: Gaps between rolls create entry points
- Solution: Overlap all sections by at least 6 inches
Burying wire without an outward bend
- Problem: Predators dig straight down along the fence
- Solution: Create an L-shape with wire extending outward at the bottom
Installing aprons on top of tall grass
- Problem: Wire doesn’t sit flat; gaps form underneath
- Solution: Clear vegetation before laying wire
Forgetting to secure wire to the fence base
- Problem: Predators push under the fence where wire meets the structure
- Solution: Attach apron edge to fence posts with staples or zip ties
Using galvanized wire in wet climates without maintenance
- Problem: Wire rusts through in 3-5 years
- Solution: Inspect annually; replace rusted sections; consider vinyl-coated hardware cloth
Regular inspection catches these issues before predators do. Walk your perimeter monthly and check for loose stakes, rust spots, or gaps that need repair.
Do I Need to Bury Wire If I Have a Predator Apron?
You don’t need to bury wire if you install a proper predator apron that extends at least 12 inches outward and is securely staked every 12 inches. The apron lying flat on the ground surface provides equivalent or better protection than buried wire because it blocks digging at the fence line where predators naturally start. Burial adds minimal benefit and significantly more labor.
When a surface apron alone is sufficient:
- Typical backyard coops in suburban or urban areas
- Predator pressure from raccoons, opossums, and small dogs
- Rocky or root-filled soil where digging is impractical
- Temporary or movable coop setups
- Budget or time constraints
When to combine apron with shallow burial:
- Rural areas with aggressive fox or coyote populations
- History of predator attacks in your specific location
- Permanent coop installations where you want maximum security
- Areas with badgers or other extreme diggers (rare)
If you choose to combine both methods, bury the apron 4-6 inches deep rather than the full 12-18 inches required for vertical burial alone. This shallow burial anchors the apron and adds a layer of security without requiring extensive excavation.
The key to apron effectiveness is proper installation: use hardware cloth (not chicken wire), extend it at least 12 inches, stake it thoroughly, and eliminate gaps at corners and gates. A well-installed surface apron stops 95% of predator digging attempts.
Will Raccoons Dig Under 12 Inches of Buried Wire?
Raccoons can dig under 12 inches of buried wire if the wire is installed vertically without an outward bend at the bottom. However, a predator apron extending 12 inches outward from the fence base effectively stops raccoons because they must dig through the wire mesh itself, which they typically abandon after a few attempts. The horizontal orientation of an apron is more effective than vertical burial at the same depth.
Raccoon digging behavior:
- Start digging immediately at the fence base where they smell chickens
- Can excavate 12-18 inches deep in soft soil within a few hours
- Become frustrated when encountering wire and usually move on
- May return multiple nights if they know chickens are present
- Use dexterous paws to pull and tear at weak points in wire
Why aprons work better against raccoons:
- Raccoons dig down at the fence, immediately hitting the apron
- Digging through horizontal wire is much harder than digging around vertical wire
- Aprons provide no obvious “edge” to dig around
- Raccoons can’t use their paws effectively to tear through staked hardware cloth
Additional raccoon deterrents:
- Use 1/2-inch hardware cloth (they can’t tear it)
- Secure all stakes firmly so raccoons can’t lift the apron
- Eliminate food sources (secure feed, remove spilled grain)
- Install motion-activated lights or sprinklers as secondary deterrents
- Check for gaps at gates and corners where raccoons probe
If you’ve had raccoon problems despite a 12-inch apron, inspect for installation errors: gaps at corners, insufficient staking, or use of chicken wire instead of hardware cloth. Properly installed hardware cloth aprons have an excellent track record against raccoons.
Predator Apron for Small Backyard Coop: Worth It?
A predator apron is absolutely worth installing for small backyard coops because it provides reliable protection against the most common urban and suburban predators (raccoons, opossums, neighborhood dogs) with minimal cost and effort. For a small coop (4-6 chickens), you can install a complete apron in 2-3 hours for $50-100 in materials, which is far less expensive than replacing lost birds or dealing with injured chickens.
Cost-benefit analysis for small coops:
- Material cost: $50-100 for hardware cloth and stakes (small perimeter)
- Installation time: 2-3 hours for average DIYer
- Protection value: Prevents 90%+ of predator attacks
- Replacement cost of lost birds: $25-50 per chicken (heritage breeds cost more)
- Emotional cost: Significant stress and guilt after predator attacks
Small coop considerations:
- Smaller perimeter means less material and faster installation
- Urban coops face fewer predators but raccoons are still common
- Even one predator attack can devastate a small flock
- Aprons are easier to install than buried wire for small spaces
- Portable or movable small coops benefit from surface aprons (no excavation needed)
Many backyard chicken keepers skip predator protection initially, assuming their urban location is safe. This often leads to devastating losses when a raccoon discovers the coop. Installing an apron from the start prevents this common and heartbreaking scenario.
For small coops, focus on a 12-inch apron with 1/2-inch hardware cloth. This provides excellent protection without overbuilding. Pair the apron with secure latches on doors (raccoons can open simple hooks) and hardware cloth over windows for complete protection.
Can Foxes Get Through Chicken Wire Buried 6 Inches Deep?
Foxes can easily dig past chicken wire buried only 6 inches deep, and they can also tear through chicken wire regardless of depth because the thin gauge wire is not strong enough to resist their teeth and claws. For fox protection, use hardware cloth (not chicken wire) buried at least 18 inches deep or installed as a predator apron extending 18-24 inches outward from the fence base.
Fox capabilities and behavior:
- Dig 18-24 inches deep in soft soil within an hour
- Hunt primarily at dawn and dusk but may attack during the day
- Extremely persistent when they know chickens are present
- Can jump 6-foot fences and climb chain link
- Will return night after night until they succeed or are deterred
Effective fox deterrents:
- Hardware cloth apron: 18-24 inches wide, 1/2-inch mesh
- Buried hardware cloth: 18 inches deep with outward L-bend
- Fence height: Minimum 6 feet with inward overhang at top
- Roof or netting: Cover run completely to prevent jumping/climbing
- Electric fence: Single strand 6 inches above ground as secondary deterrent
Why 6 inches is insufficient:
- Foxes dig deeper than raccoons (18-24″ vs. 12-18″)
- Shallow burial provides false security
- Chicken wire tears easily under fox attack
- Foxes are more persistent than most predators
If you live in an area with known fox activity, don’t compromise on protection. The combination of a 24-inch hardware cloth apron and a fully covered run provides the best defense. Many rural chicken keepers learn this lesson after losing entire flocks to fox attacks.
For more guidance on protecting your flock, check out resources on backyard chicken care and predator protection strategies.
How to Secure Chicken Wire Apron Without Digging
Secure a predator apron without digging by laying hardware cloth flat on the ground surface, attaching the inner edge to your fence base with staples or zip ties, and driving 6-8 inch landscape staples through the mesh every 12 inches across the entire apron. Add weight with rocks, pavers, or a 1-2 inch layer of mulch to keep the apron flat and accelerate grass growth through the mesh.
No-dig installation method:
- Clear surface debris: Remove rocks and sticks but don’t excavate
- Lay hardware cloth: Position with one edge tight against fence base
- Attach to fence: Secure inner edge with fence staples or heavy-duty zip ties every 12 inches
- Drive landscape staples: Insert 6-8 inch staples every 12 inches in a grid pattern across the apron
- Add weight: Place rocks or pavers along the outer edge
- Cover with mulch: Spread 1-2 inches of mulch, soil, or wood chips over the apron
- Water lightly: Helps settle mulch and encourages grass growth
Best landscape staples for aprons:
- 6-inch staples: Minimum for soft soil; adequate for most installations
- 8-inch staples: Better for hard or rocky soil; more secure
- 11-inch staples: Maximum security for high-predator areas
- Material: Galvanized steel (rust-resistant) or heavy-gauge wire
Additional securing methods:
- Paver stones: Place along outer edge for extra weight and clean appearance
- Gravel or rock: Spread over apron for permanent installations
- Sod placement: Lay sod pieces over apron for instant grass cover
- Wooden edging: Install landscape timbers over outer edge
Why surface installation works:
- Predators dig down at the fence, immediately hitting the apron
- Staked wire is difficult for predators to lift or move
- Grass grows through mesh within weeks, anchoring it naturally
- No excavation means faster installation and no soil disruption
Surface installation is particularly valuable for existing coops where digging would damage landscaping, encounter roots, or disturb utilities. The method works equally well for permanent and temporary installations.
For chicken keepers managing multiple aspects of flock care, surface aprons save time that can be spent on other important tasks like monitoring molting cycles or managing broody hens.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to install a predator apron?
Installing a predator apron takes 2-4 hours for an average backyard chicken run (50-100 linear feet). Small coops can be completed in 1-2 hours, while large runs or difficult terrain may require 6-8 hours. The process is much faster than digging trenches for buried wire.
Can I use chicken wire for a predator apron?
No, chicken wire is not strong enough for predator aprons. Raccoons and foxes can tear through the thin gauge wire easily. Always use 1/2-inch hardware cloth for predator protection. Chicken wire is only suitable for keeping chickens contained, not keeping predators out.
How often should I inspect my predator apron?
Inspect your predator apron monthly during active predator seasons (spring and fall) and after any attempted attacks. Check for loose stakes, rust spots, gaps at corners, and areas where predators have attempted to dig. Annual thorough inspections are sufficient in low-predator areas.
Will grass grow through a predator apron?
Yes, grass and ground cover will grow through hardware cloth within 4-8 weeks, naturally camouflaging the apron. You can speed this process by spreading 1-2 inches of soil or compost over the apron and watering regularly. The mesh doesn’t prevent plant growth.
Do I need a predator apron if my coop has a concrete floor?
If your coop has a solid concrete floor, you don’t need an apron under the coop itself, but you still need protection around any attached run or outdoor area where chickens spend time. Predators will dig under run fencing even if the coop is secure.
What’s the minimum apron width for raccoon protection?
The minimum effective apron width for raccoon protection is 12 inches, but 18 inches is recommended for reliable security. Raccoons can dig 12-18 inches deep, so a 12-inch apron provides basic protection while 18 inches offers a comfortable safety margin.
Can I install a predator apron on sloped ground?
Yes, predator aprons work on sloped ground. Follow the ground contour and use extra landscape staples (every 8-10 inches instead of 12) to keep the wire flat against the slope. You may need to overlap sections more frequently on steep slopes to prevent gaps.
How much does hardware cloth cost for a predator apron?
Hardware cloth costs $1.50-3.00 per square foot depending on mesh size and wire gauge. For a typical small coop with 40 feet of perimeter and an 18-inch apron, expect to spend $60-120 on hardware cloth plus $15-25 for landscape staples.
Will a predator apron stop snakes?
A predator apron with 1/4-inch hardware cloth will stop most snakes from entering at ground level, but snakes can also climb fences and enter through gaps in walls or roofs. For complete snake protection, use 1/4-inch hardware cloth on all coop openings and ensure no gaps larger than 1/4 inch exist anywhere.
Can I move a coop that has a predator apron installed?
Surface-mounted predator aprons can be moved with the coop if you remove the landscape staples and roll up the hardware cloth. For portable coops or chicken tractors, install a 12-inch apron that moves with the structure, or install a new apron at each location.
Do electric fences replace the need for predator aprons?
Electric fences are a supplementary deterrent but don’t replace predator aprons. Predators can dig under electric fences if the wire is too high above ground, and electric fences require maintenance and power. Use both together for maximum protection in high-risk areas.
How deep do I need to bury hardware cloth for complete protection?
For complete protection using buried hardware cloth without an apron, bury it 18-24 inches deep with a 12-inch outward bend at the bottom (L-shape). However, a surface apron extending 18-24 inches provides equivalent protection with much less labor.
Conclusion
Understanding how deep to bury chicken wire and the advantages of predator aprons is essential for protecting your backyard flock. While traditional advice suggests burying wire 12-18 inches deep, modern best practices favor predator aprons that extend 12-24 inches outward from the fence base. These horizontal barriers are more effective, easier to install, and work on any terrain.
The most important takeaway is to use hardware cloth (1/2-inch mesh) instead of chicken wire for any predator-facing application. Chicken wire simply cannot withstand determined predators like raccoons and foxes, regardless of how deep you bury it. Invest in quality materials from the start to avoid the heartbreak of losing birds to preventable attacks.
Your next steps:
- Assess your predator risk: Research common predators in your area and talk to neighboring chicken keepers about their experiences
- Measure your perimeter: Calculate how much hardware cloth you’ll need (perimeter length × apron width)
- Purchase materials: Buy 1/2-inch hardware cloth, 6-8 inch landscape staples, and work gloves
- Install your apron: Follow the step-by-step process outlined above, focusing on eliminating gaps at corners and gates
- Inspect regularly: Check your apron monthly and repair any damage immediately
Remember that predator protection is an investment in your flock’s safety and your peace of mind. A properly installed predator apron will last 5-10 years and prevent countless potential attacks. Combined with secure latches, hardware cloth on windows, and good coop management practices, your chickens will be safe from the most common backyard predators.
Start with the basics, a 12-18 inch hardware cloth apron around your run, and expand your protection as needed based on local predator activity. Your chickens depend on you for their safety, and a few hours of installation work provides years of reliable protection.
